Xi'an, Shaanxi. A Xi'an City Wall race threaded Terracotta Warriors, Huaqing Pool, Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Huashan, Hukou Falls, and old Chang'an through rain.
"It is not enough for a person to only have this life, he should also have a poetic world. For me, this world is in Chang'an City."
——Wang Xiaobo
travel
I remember learning in junior high school history class: "Go to Shanghai to see a century-old China, and go to Xi'an to see a thousand-year China." I have already been to Shanghai, so I am particularly eager for Xi'an, but I haven't found a reason yet, and the trip has been put on hold.
I was very lucky. In the Love Burning Flash Sale event in March, I actually got a spot for the Xi'an City Wall Horse, which has a lower winning rate than the Han Horse, and it was free. It’s a God-given opportunity that I don’t want to miss, especially the fact that I can analyze Xi’an through Chengma’s east wind, which is attractive enough to me.
In the middle of the week, I transferred to Beijing and rushed to Xi'an with the gradually turning yellow land and the heavy heart of being checked. I just didn't expect that when I was about to leave this city, my heart became even heavier. Just because Xi'an was so heavy, I didn't know how to write. Xi'an is like a history book, recording thousands of years of Chinese civilization. The existing ruins are silently telling the rise and fall of the past dynasties. This thousand-year-old ancient capital embodies the essence of Chinese civilization, which is both tempting and thought-provoking to trace its origins.
I really hesitated for a long time because I was afraid of writing about Xi'an badly. My stay was too short to appreciate the weight of history. Finally, I will venture to talk about this based on my understanding. Please forgive me if it is not written well.
Eight hundred miles of Qinchuan, three thousand years of legend
This city is very old.
Eight Hundred Miles Qinchuan is another name for Guanzhong. The Zhou, Qin, Han, Sui, and Tang dynasties made our civilization gradually mature and filled the Chinese timeline with stories. If we personify our civilization, then he changed from a toddler to a lively teenager in Guanzhong, and then grew into a strong man. Climb to the top and fall down again. Xi'an, as the core area of the 800-mile Qinchuan River, has history flowing slowly beneath the city walls. As a person who has experienced it, he has witnessed the most essential aspect of civilization. To describe Xi'an is almost to describe the ancient history of China. The city walls that were demolished and rebuilt are witnesses of the changes in the ancient capital during the 13 dynasties. Traveling inside and outside the city wall, you don't need to look for it. The aura of royal power accumulated in this land is lingering around it.
The Qin Empire's dream of lasting eternity is as beautiful and illusory as Afang Palace, and it attracts people's sighs in vain. The outstanding craftsmen gathered in Xi'an and its surrounding areas used the terracotta warriors and horses to perfectly reproduce the armed forces of the Qin people in another world for future generations.
Craftsmen depict the terracotta warriors and horses one by one, refusing to be stereotyped. Each work is given a unique character and lifelike.
The 1-ton bronze carriage and horse are composed of more than 6,000 parts. The No. 1 bronze chariot and horses are equipped with offensive and defensive weapons such as snipers, swords, and shields, and are responsible for clearing the way for the No. 2 chariot. The No. 2 bronze chariot and horses carry a luxurious "carriage" in which the passengers can sit and lie freely.
What is different from what we see today is that the people of Qin liked bright colors. The colors of people, horses, and vehicles at that time were very eye-catching. Armor decorated with blue, pink, black, and white decorated the empire's most dazzling warriors.
The splendor and glory of the Tang Empire can be clearly seen through the planning of Tang Chang'an City. The city planners built Chang'an into a square shape, so the whole city was orderly. Bai Juyi once said that this place is "like a chess race with hundreds of houses, and the twelve streets are like vegetable beds." The Tang Dynasty Furong Garden with Qujiang Pond as its center was different from a closed royal garden, but a public garden open to citizens, showing the broad mind of the Tang Empire and its people.
It coincided with the early founding period of Chang'an, the most creative period of Buddhism. Kumarajiva traveled east from the Western Regions to Chang'an to spread Buddhist teachings, Xuanzang traveled west from Chang'an to obtain scriptures and seek Dharma, and monks established a sect in Chang'an. When Xuanzang served as the first abbot of Daci'en Temple, he personally designed a Buddhist scripture pagoda, the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, in the temple based on Indian styles. It has been in existence for more than 1,300 years. The Big Wild Goose Pagoda has now become a landmark building in Xi'an.
Starting from Xuanzang Square in the south and located at the foot of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, the Tang Dynasty Evernight City is brightly lit all night, as if people are dreaming back to the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
Here, you can see exquisite Chinese gardens that represent Tang culture, as well as architectural avenues of different styles. The thousand-year-old ancient city is covered in glow, with green tiles and cornices, making it full of glory.
Datang Evernight City has become Xi'an's Internet celebrity check-in place, and many friends even said frankly: "I was poisoned by Douyin and went to Xi'an Datang Evernight City"... During the "Xi'an Year, the Most Chinese" period in 2019, Datang Evernight City had more than 500,000 people a day, and was known as "the most crowded in the world."
Aerial photography of the Everlasting City of the Tang Dynasty. Photography/Asen Nan
Huaqing Pool, built at the northern foot of Lishan Mountain, witnessed the love romance between Emperor Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty and Concubine Yang more than a thousand years ago, pushing the myth of the prosperous Tang Dynasty to a climax. Thousands of years of warm water have flowed in the prosperity of Chang'an, witnessing the singing years here. The sad and beautiful ending of Tang Xuanzong and Yang Yuhuan has left the setting sun on Lishan Mountain deeply imprinted in the hearts of future generations. "Song of Everlasting Sorrow" still plays here every night, as if calling us to dream back to the golden years when "the cold spring bathed in Huaqing Pool, and the warm water of the hot spring washed away the fat."
After the Tang Dynasty, the political center moved and Xi'an was transformed from a capital city into a prefecture. The city's size was greatly reduced, but its military status became more prominent. During the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties, Xi'an was regarded as an important military town in the northwest. "Xi'an" means stability in the northwest.
The city wall built during the Ming and Qing Dynasties is the best reflection. This is also the main venue of this marathon. With a circumference of 13.74 kilometers, it is the most complete city defense facility in China.
城市的中心地带则建起高大的钟楼，这也是目前中国形制最大、保存最完善的钟楼。
而与钟楼隔街相望的鼓楼，则始建于明太祖时期，迄今已有620多年的历史。 There was originally a huge drum upstairs, which was beaten every day to tell the time.历经岁月沧桑，如今巨鼓早已不存，惟余鼓楼巍然耸立。
The story of Xi'an can last for days and nights. When we come to this city as passers-by, the walls we touch with our hands and the bricks and tiles that our eyes pass by all have their stories. The delicacies I have tasted on my tongue are also memorable, such as roujiamo, biangbiang noodles, water basin mutton, mutton soaked bun... These are all conquering my taste buds all the time.
西安最著名的小吃街回民街和武汉的户部巷很像，本地人嫌弃，却是外地人绝佳的美食打卡地。
Therefore, young people say that Xi'an is a place where ancient charm still exists; foodies say that Xi'an is a steamed bun city full of snacks; racers say that Xi'an is an ancient capital full of historical stories; those born after 1995 say that Xi'an is an internet celebrity.今天的西安，穿越三千年历史的浩瀚烟云，又站在了古丝绸之路的起点，撩骚着无数的旅人，梦回长安。
Strong wind blows in Chang'an City,
Forever young, always full of tears
This city is young
Today, the military functions of city walls and bell towers are no longer important, but Xi'an is revitalized in its own way. It is the central city of the country and the core hub of the northwest region. In the 2018 "Douyin City" announced by Douyin, Xi'an ranked eighth with 1.21 billion likes. This is a microcosm of Xi'an's high activity on various social network platforms. “网红城市”是很多人贴给西安的标签。
The Xi'an City Wall Marathon is such a marathon with great Internet celebrity. After 2018, the Xi'an City Wall Marathon once again displayed a huge red poster with the theme of the Arrow Tower in Times Square, New York, fully revealing the rich traditional history and culture, becoming the "most Chinese" touch of fame in Times Square. Therefore, this year’s City Horse attracted 5,000 runners from 28 countries including China, the United States, South Korea, Germany, the United Kingdom, France, and Canada to participate. The overall winning rate was only 10.6%.
城墙是西安历史最好的传承者，是西安独特的文化标识。 Jia Pingwa once wrote in "The City of Xi'an": "Standing alone on the suspension bridge on the moat, looking up at the towers, turrets, and crenellations of the parapets, no matter how timid a person is, he will scream with pride." So I feel lucky enough to participate in such a marathon.刚到西安，我就马不停蹄的去会场领装备。
The collection area is in the city gymnasium, which is not large. You can enter by scanning your ID card and getting a paper collection form. You can also try on the clothes for size before choosing the clothes to collect. The efficiency is pretty good. Although it cannot compare with the magnificence of Han Ma’s gifts, the "Dream of Chang'an - Tang Dynasty Welcome Ceremony" organized by the organizing committee the day before the race was indeed full of heart.
On the day of the match, it rained suddenly, and the whole ancient city was shrouded in the cold wind and rain. Originally, I was still regretting that I forgot to bring my sunglasses, so I could only run away silly. It was raining heavily now, so I felt calm and calm. I could finally show my true face to others, which was actually quite good.
I was depositing my bags before the race. The rain was getting heavier and heavier. In order to maintain my body temperature, I hid under the city gate to take shelter from the rain. Although the weather was cold, everyone's enthusiasm remained undiminished. Everyone was gearing up and waiting for the race to start.
At 8:30, the only marathon in the world held on the city wall officially started. Even though the strong wind blows in the city of Xi'an, even though the cold icy rain slaps my face, the moment I step onto the ancient city wall, I am just excited.
Running on the ancient city wall, one step is the long history of ancient charm, and the other step is the youthful and energetic modernity. The wind blowing in my ears is the wind of the Western Han Dynasty, and the bricks of the Tang Dynasty are stepping on my feet. The city wall has witnessed the ceremonial footsteps of the city guards in the past and the dynamic pace of today's international city. I used my steps to maintain the most intimate relationship with the city and feel the city of Xi'an. At this moment, I suddenly felt that this 3,000-year-old city is so young.
Although the stone bricks of the ancient city wall will be uneven and slippery due to rain, the unique scenery along the way is enough to offset the strenuous feeling of running, especially the historical road signs, which are designed with great care. Xi'an was the imperial capital of China's 13 dynasties starting from the Western Zhou Dynasty, passing through the Qin and Han Dynasties to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and the perimeter of the Xi'an city wall is exactly 13.7 kilometers. Therefore, in the first half of the city wall track, there are kilometer pillars representing each dynasty, and the names of each dynasty are marked, as if you are passing through each step.
Coupled with Curry and foreign friends running by from time to time, the integration of history and culture is fully present in Chengma. Running in such an atmosphere, it has become a luxury to care too much about the pace. I just feel that 21.095 kilometers is too short.
What moved me the most along the way were the adults and mothers cheering for everyone on the roadside. Unlike Wuhan, the audience in Xi'an was generally older, but what surprised me was that their enthusiastic cheering in the wind and rain was basically the same as that of young people in their twenties, and could even be said to be more enthusiastic. The energetic old men and women looked so young. It turned out that it was not only this city that was so young in the storm, but also the people here.
What is also touching are the volunteers who persevere in the wind and rain. What about running in the wind and rain? You have the richest supplies and the warmest smiles along the way, what more can you ask for?
Feeling the long wind of history, we turned back at the halfway point amidst the cheers of cheers from the adults and aunties. The scenery after turning back was basically the same as before, but the road surface was much wider, probably because the 13.7-kilometer runners had reached the finish line, and there were only 1,600 half-distance runners left on the city wall. As someone who is used to running marathons, I just felt that the return journey was very fast, and I reached the finish line in a short while. To be honest, I really didn’t run enough.
The medal I received at the finish line was very beautiful and very historical. This year's medals are a series of thirteen dynasties medals, mainly featuring the four mythical beasts of Hanwa, including the green dragon in the east, the white tiger in the west, the red bird in the south, and the black basalt in the north. The mythical beasts representing the four directions of heaven and earth are included in the medals. Symbolizing all things in the universe and the order of the four seasons, the word "新" in the form of seal script is used in the center to present the dynasty theme of this event and imply the renewal of everything.
Although it was raining, when I left the city wall, I still saw many tourists queuing up to enter. After finishing the city wall horse run in the wind and rain, the weather was very cold, but my heart was very warm.
I like the marathon here, which gives me a reason to come to Xi'an. Some friends will ask me, why don't you write your travel diary carefully? Why do you have to add a marathon? Wouldn’t it be possible to walk without running a marathon? I thought about it, maybe it’s just because straight men have cancer, and they always feel that writing travel notes alone is too feminine, and horse racing is a very manly thing. It would be more interesting to walk around in horse racing clothes.
Probably because I still have a lingering interest in the city, I thought of "Never See Chang'an": "I have traveled thousands of miles alone and never felt lonely. It was only after arriving in Chang'an that I started to feel lonely. Everyone has a city of Chang'an in their hearts. It took me a lifetime to figure out that I have never been there."
This place used to be called "Chang'an". I didn't have time to participate in its most prosperous dynasty, but in its most beautiful years, I did not miss its splendor. Running through the city horse made me even more convinced that the golden age here will not end, just because Xi'an is really "very young" now.
那些关于山河的传说，从来不曾被遗忘
想了解西安所在的这片土地，离西安不远的华山和壶口是两个绝佳的支点。
所以上午跑完城墙马，下午稍作休整，我就乘坐最末的一般高铁赶往华山站，准备夜爬华山。
我也会问自己，为什么在刚跑完马，还下着雨也要执拗的爬华山呢？ Maybe in my definition, many things are Now or Never. If you miss this time, there may not be a next time. So don't wait, there's no need, just crawl.
当然最主要的原因还是因为慕名华山，华山是中华民族的圣山。 The "Hua" of China originates from Huashan. Therefore, Huashan is known as the "root of China".
Huashan Mountain is one of the nine great sun viewing spots in China.观日处位于华山东峰，朝阳台为最佳地点。当太阳从海平面一点一点升起来的时候，我们看到的是太阳最朝气蓬勃的样子。天气预报也说，我是有机会看到日出的，为了这一丝希望，也要搏一搏。
/ Wulong Bridge. Photography/Asen Nan
Because it was a half marathon, my physical strength was OK, and the weather forecast said that the rain would stop, so I waited until 11 o'clock in the evening to start. After passing the Huashan Archway and Wulong Bridge, you can reach the ticket gate. The stone road that climbs up all the way also starts from here. After checking in, entering fingerprints, and entering the Huashan Scenic Area, after a series of operations, it means that the night climbing trip to Huashan begins...
Walking up the ravine along the stone road, there is a valley on the left and a cliff on the right. Because it is night, except for the road illuminated by lights, it is difficult to see the valley and the cliff. The only thing that can be heard is the sound of running water in the valley.
After passing Wuli Pass and Maonv Cave, we arrived at the "Thousand-foot Building", known as one of the three major dangers in Huashan Mountain. Thousand-foot Building is a large crack on the cliff, trapped between the boulders on both sides. There are more than 370 steps in total. The slope is extremely steep, and the width of each step is only one-third of the sole of a foot. Looking down at your feet from the thousand-foot building, you feel like you are facing an abyss. The top of the stone steps is like a wellhead. If the "wellhead" is covered with an iron cover, the road to Huashan will be blocked, so this place is called "Taihua Throat".
Pass through the Qianchi Building, go left from the "patio", walk through a cliff gap of a few meters and turn right, then you will arrive at the "Baichi Gorge". The Baichi Gorge is a dangerous path with stone steps on the Qianchi Building. There are two stone steps on the left and right. We took the stone steps on the left. The gorge is more than a hundred feet long and can only allow one person to pass through.
Walking further up you will reach "Laojun's Furrow". "The plow is more dangerous than the building, and the building is more dangerous than the plow." This describes a dangerous ditch-like path sandwiched between the steep stone walls of Huashan Mountain. It is unfathomable and has more than 750 stone steps. Legend has it that Taishang Laojun saw that there was no way to pass here, so he brought green oxen to plow the ravine overnight. At the end of it is "Hozen Sad". As the name suggests, even the monkeys are worried, which shows how steep the cliff is.
After passing through Laojun's furrow and going up to the ridge, you can see the "North Peak Summit" archway. At this time, the North Peak Summit is close at hand. Looking up, you can see the winding and undulating lights, like giant dragons circling among the mountains. The places we are about to travel through are clearly visible under the guidance of the lights.
After five hours of arduous climbing, we reached the northern peak of Huashan Mountain - Yuntai Peak. Yuntai Peak is one of the main peaks of Huashan Mountain, with an altitude of 1614.7 meters. Here you can see Mr. Jin Yong’s mention of "Huashan Sword". Having grown up watching Mr. Jin Yong's "The Swordsman", I really want to look for traces of the Huashan School and Linghu Chong.
Not far from Beifeng, we arrived at Chaer Cliff. In ancient times, this section of the road was very narrow and could only accommodate one foot of a servant. To pass here, one had to lean sideways against the cliff to pass, hence the name "Cear Cliff".
Canglong Ridge is one of the famous scenic spots in Huashan. When you walk here, you can see a line of lights shining straight up on Canglong Ridge. It suddenly feels extremely steep and makes people shudder. The ridge is pale black and has the power of a swimming dragon, hence the name "Canglong Ridge". Walking in Canglong Ridge, I feel like I have traveled through the story of Tomb Robbers Notes. There seems to be a voice saying that across this galaxy, I will reach Yunding Tiangong.
The end of Canglong Ridge is Wuyun Peak, and 400 meters after that is Jinsuoguan Pass. Many people who come to Huashan will ask for a safety lock for themselves or their families. Over time, the iron chains of Jinsuoguan have been surrounded by layers of blessing locks.
After passing Jinsuoguan, we reached the East Peak, also known as Chaoyang Peak, the best spot for watching the sun on Huashan Mountain. However, it was not bright yet and the rain was getting heavier. We knew that we were destined to miss the sunrise, and the East Peak was unobstructed. After checking in, the group hid in the Huashan Hotel to take shelter from the rain, and then shivered as they watched the sky gradually whiten in the mist.
It was a pity that I didn’t see the sunrise. I wanted to go to the East Peak Cableway and take the cable car back down the mountain, but I felt scared looking at the slippery steep steps, so I simply went up to the South Peak Cableway, had a Dicos and then took the cable car down the mountain.
When going down the mountain, I felt a little disappointed. The cable car was surrounded by fog and I couldn't see anything. The drone couldn't fly without GPS. I guess I couldn't see anything when it flew. It was a pity that I didn't see the sunrise and didn't experience the pigeon turning over. However, the mist-shrouded Huashan Mountain is both sacred and mysterious. Visiting Huashan Mountain in the rain is also a unique experience! I posted a message on Moments out of frustration. Unexpectedly, many friends asked me for tips. I was also careful and calm.
This land is magical enough. After climbing to the top of the "Root of China", I came to the "Soul of China" the Yellow River the next day. If the Yellow River is an immortal epic of the Chinese nation, Hukou is an exclamation point on this epic, the world's largest yellow waterfall - Hukou Falls.
Hukou Waterfall. Photography/Asen Nan
The Yellow River narrows from a width of 300 meters to 50 meters here. It flows straight down and the roaring waves are like thousands of troops galloping and roaring. The sound can be heard dozens of miles away. Its overwhelming majestic momentum is known as "It is difficult to recognize the true face of the Yellow River without looking at the Hukou Falls." The main waterfall is majestic, while the second waterfall is full of beauty.
The high loess slopes captured in aerial photography have an indescribable desolation, and Yan'an is not far away. In addition, the "Yellow River Cantata" played all the time in the Hukou Scenic Area, and the sound of the powerful waterfalls also gave me a deeper understanding of this land.
digression
Before leaving Xi'an, I went to meet an old classmate, Qiannan, whom I hadn't seen in almost ten years. Qiannan was the school belle in junior high school. She was very bright. Now she is a married woman and she recently gave birth to a baby. In fact, I didn't want to disturb her at first, but after seeing her post on her baby's Moments this morning, I decided to go and meet her old classmates.
Although we haven’t seen each other for almost ten years, our old classmates are still bright and beautiful. There are still endless topics to talk about, and you can still look forward to your future life and discuss trivial worries, just like ten years ago. I just lament that time goes too fast and I can never get back to those shining times.
I had a dream that night. In 2003, Qiannan was walking on the streets of Xinglong. She looked so young and bright, just like the sunshine on the street. Later I told her that if wrinkles will eventually be engraved on our foreheads, the only thing we can do is to prevent them from being engraved on our hearts.
- End -
Words | Arsenan
Photos | Arsenan
Design | Arsenan