Bangkok, day and night
The Land of Smiles, without the awkwardness
Preface
Hong Kong had been a little awkward lately, but heading to Thailand for a marathon did not feel awkward at all. If anything, it felt a bit unfinished, as if the trip still had more to say.
In the past six months, due to some reasons, I seemed to have fallen into an awkward path, my body was not in the best condition, and I had just picked up running again.
The Bangkok trip started partly on impulse and partly from a small misunderstanding. Either way, I went.
One day, the noise and silence of Bangkok
I took a flight early in the morning. This was not my first marathon trip in Southeast Asia. I was more sleepy than excited. I arrived in Bangkok in less than four hours. I had done some homework before arriving in Bangkok.
In fact, the word "Bangkok" originated from the Chaoshan dialect. It was Chaoshan people who mispronounced "Bangkok" (the ending of "k" comes from French) as "Bangkok". As a result, the irrelevant "Man" and the seemingly non-existent "Valley" encountered a slightly absurd encounter. But Thais don’t call it Bangkok, just like we don’t call Beijing Peking. Thais call Bangkok “Kongthep”, which means the City of Angels.
Therefore, when talking to Thai people, calling Bangkok "Kong Tie" can win their favor. Of course, good opinion does not mean high opinion, unless you can really tell the full name of Bangkok:
กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยา มหาดิลกภพ นพรัตนราชธานีบูรีรมย์ อุดมราชนิเวศน์มหาสถาน อมรพิมานอวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยวิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์
As soon as I got off the airport bus, I was surprised to see the signboard of the Bangkok Marathon. It was indeed the former Standard Chartered Marathon. It seemed that the publicity was quite good.
Pictures of King Rama X can be seen everywhere, looking solemn and noble. It’s just that the motorcycles roaring their engines unbridled all over the street are really noisy and make my scalp numb. The decibel index is extremely high, and they seem to be showing off a certain sense of power in the city.
The weather was extremely hot, so I just wanted to rush to the hotel quickly. I passed by the Thai Democracy Monument and the snack street, and finally found the Vivit hotel I booked. The front desk can speak English and the environment is good.
I packed up briefly and prepared to go directly to Chantana Yingyong Building to pick up running equipment. Google Maps directed me to take the bus next to the big swing, but there was no bus sign after searching for a long time. It is said that Bangkok’s buses are in hell mode and are not recommended for foreigners. The stop signs are hidden, the map is inaccurate, and they are often overcrowded. This time I believed it.
Looking at the map, it's not far, so just walk. There are motorcycles roaring all over the street. It's really scary to cross the road in Bangkok. I feel like I might be hit at any time. I accidentally saw the football field under the overpass. Several children were having fun. The football here is very pure. When I think about Greater China, I just want to laugh.
It turns out that the gym where I picked up my belongings was in Chulalongkorn University. The school security guard saw that I was coming for a run and told me the location of the gym while dancing. It was indeed a country of smiles. There was a small race expo in the gym and there was a host making introductions. The things were not cheap at all. Picking up the luggage was simple and efficient. Overall, it was much more attentive than Sundown in Singapore.
After leaving the gymnasium, it was time to walk around the university. Chulalongkorn University's status in Thailand is similar to that of our Qingbei. It is the first higher education institution in Thailand. It was established in 1917 by King Rama VI and named after King Rama V Chulalongkorn. It is recognized by the Thai people as "the most prestigious university in the country."
The school is located in the most prosperous downtown area of Bangkok, but compared with the high-decibel roar outside, it is rare and quiet here. The school is lined with green trees and the buildings are very distinctive. Thai girls wearing white and blue school uniforms walk by me. The fragrance of green grass wafts in the distance, and the smell of youthful hormones is everywhere.
After a while, I walked to Chulalongkorn’s canteen. I thought I wouldn’t be able to eat without a card. I hesitated for a while, but decided to go in and take a look. To my surprise, I only had to pay Thai baht to get food. My aunt asked me directly in Chinese: “What to eat?” The canteen is similar to the ones in China, and I officially had my first meal in Thailand here.
A Thai kid at the entrance of the cafeteria was playing Honor of Kings, and the sun was about to set outside. I took advantage of the last sunlight of the day to take a few photos.
It was still early, so I decided to experience the Bangkok bus and go to the Chao Phraya River to see the night view.
Night One, Chao Phraya River Transvestite Show
After a lot of effort, I waited for the bus. I showed the conductor Google Maps and then took out a bunch of coins and asked her to count them by herself. This trick worked really well. I successfully boarded a bus in Bangkok. Even though the bus looked shabby on the outside, the air conditioning was fully turned on inside, and the experience was not that hellish.
I came to the pier square of the River City Shopping Complex and exchanged my boat ticket. It was still early before the 8 o'clock boat departure. I couldn't help but eat another piece of mango sticky rice. Then I sat on a wooden bench by the river and watched the Chao Phraya River gradually fall into the night under the cover of dusk.
It is said that "when you cruise along the river to admire Bangkok, you will see the shadow of the moon accompanied by the starlight". Whether you are a backpacker visiting Bangkok for the first time or an in-depth traveler who has been to Bangkok many times, a night cruise on the Chao Phraya River is the best way for you to see Bangkok from a different perspective.
The "Magnolia" cruise ship I chose set sail at 8:15, with candlelight, sake, and buffet. The quality was very high. I was just sightseeing, but I didn't expect to have my third meal of the night. It was an all-you-can-eat buffet, but it tasted really good.
The Chao Phraya River is the mother river of Thailand, and all legends about Thailand originate from here. Her stretch through Bangkok is ideal for a cruise. The famous scenic spots on both sides of the Taiwan Strait are covered in starlight and their shadows are flying in the swaying water, releasing a charm that is completely different from that in the daytime.
There were singers performing on the bow of the boat, switching between English songs, Thai songs, and Indian songs at will. Finally, they sang a Chinese song "Xiao Wei".
Bangkok is a famous city that never sleeps. The night here is so beautiful that it is definitely worth the price of admission. Unexpectedly, there will be a surprise at the end.
I didn't pay attention when I bought the ticket. It turned out that our ship was the only cruise ship with a ladyboy show. The tall, burly and charming ladyboy show made everyone excited. They interacted with the audience on the boat from time to time, which also made the children shy.
The transvestite performance had just ended, and the heat had not completely dissipated. Inspired by the music, Thai men and women spontaneously danced to the beat, and the crowd cheered. This reminded me of the feast of bliss in "The Legend of the Demon Cat".
Some people say that on the Chao Phraya River, every time she turns gracefully, her shadow will be left in her eyes. The light and shadow of the Chao Phraya River are very intoxicating, even a bit luxurious. It is also a very special way to follow Bangkok into the night in this way.
I still took the bus when I went back, and I was surprised to find that the last bus lasted until late at night. The life of Bangkok people may have just entered the rhythm at this time.
Passing by Bangkok's China Town, there are huge crowds of people, the aroma of various snacks is fragrant, and all kinds of neon lights light up the sky. Thinking that I had already had three dinners, I didn’t get out of the car and go shopping in Chinatown.
Go back to rest and continue your visit to Bangkok the next day.
Day 2, check in with a quick glance
Tom Robbins once said: "Bangkok is unique beyond any other big city. It is gorgeous and decayed, exquisite and enchanting; soft and rigid, vulgar and sacred."
If you want to get to know Bangkok, perhaps the best way is to visit the famous attractions here one by one and set off at 6 o'clock the next day.
The first stop is to worship the Erawan Buddha.
When going to Bangkok, worshiping the Erawan Buddha seems to be a MUST for most people. I also came to worship the Erawan Buddha with my wish, and then received the baptism of holy water.
The second stop is Maeklong Railway Market, which is popular on Douyin.
This is the most unique market in Thailand, and it is also the most pyrotechnic place. It is great to integrate into the atmosphere of this city in the most down-to-earth way.
There is a lot of delicious food here, so I quickly made up for breakfast with omelette rice, and then watched the train arrive at the station. The brightly colored train was very beautiful, and everyone gathered around to take pictures.
I took the train for one stop and watched the train pass by the shops and tourists outside. My mind was full of Indian cheating series, Indian trains, tickets, etc. It was very hot in Bangkok, but the natural wind in the train was very cool.
The platform after getting off the bus has the feeling of Kamakura in "Slam Dunk".
The third stop is Damnoen Dosha Floating Market.
This is the most unique floating market in Thailand. The river here is the street, and motorboats and large and small wooden boats replace various large and small vehicles.
Peasant women wearing bamboo hats rowed light boats, and city merchants drove here from all directions on motorboats. The boats were loaded with abundant agricultural products, handicrafts, etc. Sellers displayed various goods on the boats for sale, and buyers also rowed to buy the goods they needed.
The boats for buying and selling, rowing and stopping without restrictions, the sounds of bargaining, the rising and falling sounds of hawking, and the sound of the motorboat's motor form a wonderful symphony on the water. Vendors, customers, and tourists gather at the floating market, which is very lively.
I ate Thai food here, but I was too full. Otherwise, I really wanted to try the Thai rice noodles served by the little Thai girl by the river.
The fourth stop, the Grand Palace.
This is Thailand’s tourism icon, just like the Forbidden City in Beijing. When you walk inside, you will feel particularly gorgeous, glittering and even a little dazzling. Although not as large as the Forbidden City, it is more exquisite and has its own characteristics.
Religion is closely related to the Thai people. Pious Thais will close their hands in front of them and bow gently when they see the magnificent Buddhist temple from a distance. Therefore, you cannot miss the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in the Grand Palace when you come to Bangkok. Photography is not allowed in the Jade Buddha Hall, so we had to take pictures of the Jade Buddha outside.
The Grand Palace not only brings together the essence of Thai architecture with the characteristics of Siamese art, but also brings together the essence of painting, sculpture and decorative arts. It is indeed well-deserved.
After saying goodbye to the Grand Palace in a hurry, we went to the last stop, King Power Duty Free Shop, where we had a buffet and experienced the indoor Frozen. There is no winter in Thailand, and the large indoor air conditioner created a winter atmosphere. As a Northeasterner, I looked at the happy Thai children and thought to myself: "Kid, you look very cute even though you have never seen the world."
Say goodbye to a day of sightseeing and clocking in at the limit, and go back to take a short rest and prepare for the marathon in the evening.
At night, the Bangkok Marathon starts
There are many marathon events in Bangkok, the capital of Thailand, and the BDMS Bangkok Marathon I participated in is the most historical event in Bangkok. The first event started in 1988 and was one of the series of events sponsored by Standard Chartered Bank!
The starting and finishing points are on Sanam Chai Road. We will start in front of the solemn Grand Palace and pass by the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the majestic and magnificent Buddhist landmarks along the Chao Phraya River along the way.
However, marathons in Southeast Asia have always challenged the human biological clock. In order to prevent being burned by the rampant sun, we can only complete this event at the most comfortable night.
The marathon race was scheduled to start in the early morning, but I arrived in front of the square of the Grand Palace at 10:30 to feel the race atmosphere in advance. Different from the small atmosphere of Sundown in Singapore, the events in BDMS Bangkok can be said to be grand and prestigious. There is unlimited supply of coffee drinks before the race, and photographers will take the initiative to find you to take pictures. Runners from the East and the West gather here. We don’t care about skin color or each other’s language. Helping each other take photos is the most appropriate etiquette at this moment.
The Grand Palace is even more charming at night under the lights. The evening breeze of Bangkok blows by, and sometimes people even forget that this is Southeast Asia. The warm-up activities before the race were very interesting. The lead dancer on the stage actually led everyone to play Muay Thai.
We started on time at 0 o'clock. After running less than a kilometer, we passed the first landmark building, Thailand's Democracy Monument. Different from the pure white buildings seen during the day, the monument at night seemed a little more dreamy.
The lights flashed on the road in front of the monument, and rows of motorcycles were waiting at the intersection. The Thai traffic police were between us. The light of neon lights and car lights mixed together, illuminating the flow of people in front of us like a dream.
Two kilometers away, there was the first supply point. This was the closest supply point I had ever seen. I felt that I didn’t need it very much, so I continued moving forward.
The rest of the race was elevated throughout, and the spectators on the roadside welcomed us into the long elevated journey. Then we ran into the Rama IX Bridge, and the Chao Phraya River seemed particularly quiet without the cruise ships.
My overall condition was okay. Bangkok was not as hot as I expected at night in the cool season. In the blink of an eye, 15 kilometers later, I saw the black army returning from the turnaround road.
When I ran close to 20 kilometers, I saw the huge photo of the king again, followed by a 4-kilometer detour. At this time, I found that the road sign was suddenly 1.5 kilometers less than what my watch recorded. This made me a little uncomfortable, and I was even worried about finishing the race. After all, under the conditions of high humidity and heat in the southeast, we must ensure that we have enough time in the second half of the journey. Unlike Singapore which closes for 8 hours, Bangkok only closes for 6 hours.
On the way back, I once again saw the brightly lit outdoor football field. It was almost 3 a.m., and the lights on the football field were still on, which surprised me.
After 30 kilometers, I reached my physical limit, so I started walking. But at this time, there were suddenly more runners on the track, and I realized that half-marathoners also began to join the large group.
The final journey basically consisted of looking at the watch, running for a while, and walking for a while. Fortunately, the supply points every 2 kilometers were always on time. We ate and drank and felt the final journey of the Bangkok Marathon.
With 4 kilometers left, the number of photographers gradually increased, and it was a rare sight to see organized and disciplined cheerleaders cheering everyone on the roadside. I usually focus on the cheerleaders, save my energy, and then start pretending to run about ten meters away from them. After the photographer takes the picture, I am like a deflated rubber ball again, pacing forward like a salty fish.
At this time, I suddenly realized that the mileage plate suddenly returned to normal again. The lost 1.5 kilometers came back inexplicably. It felt like I had eaten two cans of Red Bull, and my blood bar increased a lot in an instant.
In the last two kilometers, the Grand Palace was clearly visible, and the white building of Paraatei Station on Khao San Road also made my eyes shine. My physical strength gradually recovered like a miracle, and I jogged all the way into the crowd. The moment I crossed the finish line, the time was fixed at 5 hours and 10 minutes, 10 minutes faster than last year's Singapore Sundown. For me, who is semi-retired, I am already very satisfied.
After the race, I received a lunch box, then the finisher uniform, medals, ice cream, milkshakes, and drinks. In short, I couldn’t hold them all in my hands. There was still some noodles after the race, but I lost my appetite to eat them.
After the race, I queued up for a Thai massage. The Thai volunteer was lively and insisted on giving me ice cream afterward. Then she asked, in Thai and gestures, whether it tasted good. I stared blankly for a while until the auntie next to me kindly translated.
The people in the Land of Smiles are very friendly. I saw that everyone would leave some tips after the massage after the race. Unfortunately, I didn’t bring any money with me, so I had to say goodbye to the therapist a little sheepishly. She didn't care and gave me another smile.
The sky is getting brighter, and the runners in the full, half and ten kilometers have basically returned to the finish line. I sat on the grass in front of the Grand Palace, watching people coming and going, taking photos with each other holding medals. Although I was very sleepy, I felt very satisfied.
Some people say that the Bangkok Marathon is entirely elevated and has no scenery. In fact, I don’t agree. Passing by the Chao Phraya River and the old town, you can experience Bangkok's nightlife up close, and passing many of Bangkok's landmark buildings is also enjoyable. Although the supplies are relatively simple, there are many supply points, and it is rare to have so many volunteers participating in the middle of the night. The best part is that both the starting point and the end point are in front of the Grand Palace, which is a supreme honor.
Postscript
Facing the rising sun in Bangkok, I went back to sleep all morning, had a Bangkok dinner at noon, and had Hainanese chicken rice at Don Mueang Airport before returning overnight.
Although this trip to Bangkok was rushed, it was still unforgettable. Although the water of the Chao Phraya River is not clear to the bottom, and although Bangkok's traffic is extremely congested, this "Venice of the East" still makes me feel extremely dreamy. The word "Thailand" in Thai means the land of freedom, and in this one of the largest cities in the world, I feel that except that I cannot freely complain about the King of Thailand, all other freedoms are my freedom.
I think it’s great to be able to get to know this place through a marathon during the weekend. There is no such thing as "Thailand", there are devout people everywhere, and the smiles here are definitely healing.
In front of the Erawan Buddha, I made my most important wish this year, hoping that one day I can come back here again and fulfill my wish devoutly.
- The end -
Words | Arsenan
Photos | Arsenan
Design | Arsenan